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Waking up among the trees in Basel

Waking up among the trees in Basel

Promotion piece courtesy of Jugendherberge Basel

A hostel would never be the first option I reach for on an out-of-town photography assignment. But then, the Jugendherberge I came across in Basel is not quite your run-of-the-mill hostel. I discovered it while searching for sustainable accommodation options during a trip to the historic city. The clean lines and near brutalist aesthetic of the Swiss Youth Hostel caught my eye, and I was keen to give it a try.  

Basel youth hostel. Photographed by Barbara Cilliers for SoonafternoonBasel youth hostel. Photographed by Barbara Cilliers for SoonafternoonBasel youth hostel. Photographed by Barbara Cilliers for Soonafternoon

Tucked away between the trees on the Southern banks of the Rhine, the hostel gives you the impression that it’s somewhere deep inside a forest, even though it’s but a 20min walk from Basel central station. A bridge across the crystal water of the St. Alban’s waterway welcomes you to the entrance. With an open lamella hugging the older stone structure that leads into the modern one, the bare oak beams add a pastoral quality in their mimicry of the neighbouring woods. 

Sustainable accommodation in Basel
Bedroom viewHotel Story

The architecture is a beautiful mix of modern and old. The original building dates back to a 1850s silk ribbon factory before it was transformed into a hostel during the 80s. The modern-day interpretation was completed by Buchner Bründler Architects in 2010. Paying homage to the buildings industrial past, haptic and natural materials like concrete, wood and stone are used through-out, while the floor to ceiling windows draw the surrounding nature into the space. The interior design story continues this interpretation with an understated yet tasteful choice of furnishings. 

With their laid back and warm approach, the welcoming personnel made me feel at home in an instant. The place has that easy going, come-as-you-are openness that one can expect from a hostel. Yet the private rooms with their on-suite bathrooms and open balconies, bestowed that sense of luxury a hotel room should offer–with all the comforts you would expect (minus a kettle and TV–details I did not miss). Even the shared- and family rooms maintain the impression of good taste; simple yet comfortable and impeccably clean.  

Swiss Youth Hostels

The hostel has an HI-Q and a platinum Ibex Fairstay certification which means they are committed to high standards and positive impacts. The accreditation is based on criteria demonstrating effective sustainable management of resources, maximizing social and economic benefits for the local community, cultural heritage and environment as well as the preservation of biodiversity, ecosystems and surrounding landscapes. Some examples include low-maintenance and natural building materials, resource saving and mindful housekeeping routines and products as well as the use of locally sourced produce.

Judging by the amount of toddlers running around at breakfast time, the hostel is quite popular amongst families. I enjoyed my breakfast and dinner in the dappled sunlight of the outside terrace, watching birds bounce from tree to branch with the soft roar of the water tumbling over rocks in the distance. I would certainly choose to stay here again should a future adventure bring me to Basel.

A special thanks to the house manager and team of Jugendherberge in Basel for their efforts in making my stay truly memorable.

youthhostel.ch | basel@youthhostel.ch | Tel: +41 61 272 05 72 | Jugendherberge Basel, St. Alban-Kirchrain 10, 4052 Basel, Schweiz
Text & Photography ©  Barbara Cilliers

Lessons from the long road

Wisdoms of an eight-year-old

At the youthful age of eight, I laced up my very first hiking boots. Four feet tall, a short bouncy bob, and a sleeping bag stuffed into the tiny backpack hugging my waist. Ready to traverse the rolling hills of Bochabello.

My parents introduced my twin sis and I to backpacking at an early age. This instilled in us a deep love and respect for nature, together with wisdoms imparted on one faced with the long road.

It is where I learned the power of words, the magic of the mind and the strength of unfailing belief. 

The Pilgrim's waySignage of the Camino de Santiago
Views of the Camino de Santiago

I’m sure you can imagine, grown-up distances gets far pretty quickly when your legs are the length of fore-arms. I remember one afternoon on a hike somewhere in the Blyde River Canyon, the hot sun beating down on my neck and shoulders. Tired, angry and close to tears I whined to my father. “How far still pappa?”. It must have been the fifth time I asked. My dad, who should’ve been at his wits end by then, calmly came to a halt and hunched beside us.

Modern day Pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago
Camino de Santiagothe Way of St. James

He told us if we were good, he would share with us a magic word. If we said it over and over, he explained, the word will give us power and the energy to go on, and we would forget about being tired altogether. This magic word was “laskenakke”. 

“Will it really work pappa?”, we implored.

“Only if you really, really believe it will” he replied. 

We walked on. Repeating laskenakke, loudly and in unison. Woah! We laughed as we imagined how the energy erupted inside us. Giddy, we skipped onward.

On the Way of St. JamesSights of The Way of St. James
The Way of St. JamesThe Way of St. JamesRoadside flowers

Laskenakke has stayed with me my entire life. It’s what I summoned halfway up Chapman’s peak on a bicycle or when the birds started chirping when I pulled an all-nighter to get a final year project completed. It’s what I keep in the pockets of my mind every day.

Even now when I am writing this, it’s a mental snack. Always at the ready. Like the time we embarked on a leg of the Camino de Santiago–exactly two years ago–when at times, the 120 kilometres of road ahead, seemed a tad bit daunting.

Pilgrimage of Compostela
Pilgrimage of CompostelaPilgrimage of CompostelaPilgrimage of Compostela

Also known as the Pilgramage of Compostella or the Way of St James, the Camino is a network of walkways. These “pilgrim’s pathways”, lead to the shrine of the apostle of Saint James The Great, who’s remains is said to be buried in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, northwestern Spain. This road (or series there-of) is walked by many, as a path of spiritual growth, to find salvation or as a way to deal with hardship. It’s considered a spiritual passage. A journey with the self. 

Pilgrimage of Compostela
Pilgrimage of CompostelaPilgrimage of CompostelaPilgrimage of Compostela

In so many ways, life at the moment, is like this road to Santiago. A mental journey. One we are all on right now. An internal struggle and dialogue with the self. The ups and downs that come with the uncertainty of what the future holds and all the grim headlines plastered everywhere. The fear of the unknown, of disease and of the poverty or the hardship it is said to bring. It may seem like a terrible mountain. And we the anxious eight-year-olds struggling and frightened. 

Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de CompostelaSantiago de CompostelaSantiago de Compostela

And yes. This “walk of life” thing, will at times be tough as nails. 

And so, we can choose to sit on a rock and wait for darkness to descend. Because if we do it will. Or we can choose to believe in the power of laskenakke. The power of a positive mind. To keep going, even when it’s hard and the road seemingly endless. 

We can choose to believe that at the end there will be a warm place waiting for us. A bucket of water to wash our feet in. A can of sweet, sweet soda to quench our thirst. Cause if we believe it, there will be. But we need to keep on walking.

This is the power of believing in the positive. The magic of laskenakke. 

Text & Photography ©  Barbara Cilliers

A beautiful cottage on the island of Hydra

A beautiful cottage on the island of Hydra

Last year, on a trip with my father to Greece, we all agreed that our holiday just wouldn’t be complete, if we didn’t visit one of the many surrounding islands. After hours and hours of research, we finally came across Hydra – one of the lesser known islands just off the mainland, and only a two hour boat ride from Athens.

 
Hydra Island in Greece
Hydra Island in Greece
 

In search of that “home away from home” feel, we settled for an AirBnB apartment that caught our attention thanks to its sea viewing terrace, a garden ripe with fruit trees and its promise of an endless summer.

Much to our delight, the crisp, white cottage was tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the town. A lovely respite for those seeking a quiet retreat. Cars and motorised vehicles are banned from Hydra, and we were surprised at how tranquil and peaceful the island was. With the donkeys seeking shelter in the shade and a clowder of cats bathing in the sun, one could not help but feel like time stood still here.

 

Hydra Island, Greece
Hydra Island, Greece
 

Inside our holiday cottage, a tasteful interior occupied the space. With a nautical theme throughout the house, the cobalt windows and shutters served as constant reminders of the deep blue water of the surrounding see. The house, undoubtedly homey, felt more like a visit to my favourite aunt’s house, then a holiday apartment thousands of miles from home.

 

Hydra Island, Greece
Hydra Island, Greece
 

The kitchen – my favourite room in the house – opens up onto a spacious balcony, perfect for sundowners and evening meals. The marvellous view of the mediterranean, dotted with yachts and colourful boats, provided hours of entertainment as we eagerly watched the annual Oxi Day regatta from a distance. The well equipped kitchen with its enviable gas stove and beautiful marble sink made it an absolute pleasure to cook in – something I don’t usually enjoy in a stranger’s kitchen.

 


 

I loved how the mismatched stone tiles (mimicking the colours of the surrounding island terrain) seamlessly tied the inside with outside areas. To the front of the house, a spacious veranda, sunny and bright in the morning sun, provided the perfect spot for a morning coffee or lengthy breakfasts. Down below, the garden was brimming with citrus, offering bright golden lemons, ripe for picking.

 

 

Thanks to its use of natural materials like raw stone and wood, the building has an unpretentious air, creating the perfect balance between elegance and modesty.

From here we enjoyed pleasant strolls along the coast line and a (steep) early morning hike up the mountain, to examine an Orthodox monastery – a silent and ancient watch to the harbour below.

 

 

Though not as endless as we had hoped for, our summer sanctuary delivered on all its other promises – comfort, taste and repose. We were all a little down cast at the thought of leaving, and subsequently agreed on a prompt return – another visit to this island retreat, with it’s crisp white cottage at the foot of the hill.

 

 

Text & Photography ©  Barbara Cilliers

The Midlands Meander

The Midlands Meander

A visit to Rawdons Hotel in Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

 

Every time I’m in South Africa, I try to visit a piece of the country I’ve never seen before. The Midlands is a place I had heard of on many occasions and been wanting to visit for quite some time. The name evokes scenes of misty hills, dark green woodlands and gleaming lakes – landscapes you’re more likely to find in the northern parts of England. But as I soon discovered, this quaint piece of countryside in the heart of Natal, delivers on all of the expectations that is promised by that name.

 


 

On our recent road trip through KwaZulu-Natal, we decided to pass through the Midlands, staying at Nottingham Road – a small village tucked away between rolling green hillocks of Mooi Rivier and the foothills of the Drakensberg. The area, also known as the Midlands Meander, is less than a two hour drive from Durban, and very easy to reach by car.

 

 

During our visit we stayed at the Rawdons Country Hotel, a tranquil estate with an old English charm. Surrounded by wide green lawns and massive oak trees, the hotel offers a breathtaking view of two lakes and the pine woods beyond. All day long the lake is full of life, with waterhens hopping on the water and ibises fishing for food. At night, while the finches disappear inside nests among the reeds, the evening air becomes abuzz with an orchestra of toads.

 

 

Tucked away between the trees at the edge of the water is the Lake House. Perfect for larger groups or families, the house offers two spacious rooms that open onto a semi private lawn. The interior is an elegant mix of antiques and country-cottage furnishings. My favourite was the kingsize canopy bed, the wood-burning fireplace and romantic bathroom with clawfoot bathtub.

 


 

The Rawdons Estate also houses the Boars Head Pub, an independent brewery known for its naturally brewed ales and lagers. Here one can sample an array of quirky-named ales like tipsy tiger or pye-eyed possum, as well as their very own gin and tonic on tap. If you think you’ve quaffed quite enough, you can brim your belly from a hearty selection of pub dishes like beer battered hake (my favourite) and hunters pie.

 

 

The Rawdons Hotel is the perfect base from which to explore everything the Midlands has to offer. Or for a simple day of relaxing, just curl up with a book next to the pool. Apart from the beautiful scenery and luxurious atmosphere, what I appreciated the most about the hotel, was their friendly staff and their efforts at making our stay feel super special.

 

My favourite spots in the Meander for

Breakfast: The Blueberry Café

Coffee: Terbodore coffee Roastery

Browsing & shopping: The Piggly Wiggly Country Village and Ground Cover Leather company.

Lunch: Chicken pies from the Windmill Country Stop

Beers followed by dinner: The Hogs Head Brewery

Text & Photography ©  Barbara Cilliers